In the middle of all of the walking, we visited two Inka sites; Runkurakay and Sayaqmarka. Runkurakay had a great view of the Inka trail from Dead Womans' Pass to the Paqaymayu campsite. Raul retold the history of the ruins; the structure was once used as a lookout tower, then an observatory, and lastly as a hospital. The site was a link between the highlands and the lower elevation where coca was grown. Did you know that novacaine is made from the coca plant? An alkaline from the plant is extracted and processed so that I don't have to feel my teeth being operated on.We arrived at Sayaqmarka at 3pm - I was thanking Raul for getting started so early in the morning and pressing on. When we arrived the site was shrouded in fog, and we were the only people there. The fog made the site mysterious and made me feel like we were just discovering the ruins. Raul showed us a very small water canel that used to bring the glacial meltwater all the way from Salkantay - 12 km away!! The Inkas routed the water all the way from Salkantay because the mountain was believed to be sacred and holy.
Water plays an important part in the Inka culture, as it does in supporting any other life. From Salkantay, the water was routed through stone channels that ran along the top outer walls of the structure. The water was diverted into a fountain, which in turn drained underground to a second fountain, where once again is drained underground to a third fountain. The water in the first fountain was meant to worship the gods, the second fountain served the people, and the third fountain was used to worship the spirits of the underworld.
After an hour we were reminded that we were on the most travelled trail in Peru. The next two days on the Inka trail will be more crowded and noisy - lacking the solitude and contrasting with the beginning of our journey. I've been pleased with Raul and Q'ente; my expectations have been surpassed.
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